Thursday, October 9, 2008

Pangkor Island, Malaysia

Oh the land of Pangkor Island, the place where I properly learned how to eat curried rice with my hands and how to ride a motor bike over speed bumps in the middle of the night....
So from the Cameron Highlands I made my way to my first beach destination in SE Asia, Pangkor Island. The way it was described in my guidebook was the" girl next door" island compared to the "super model" islands on the east coast. I knew it was going to be right up my alley with that description. I had planned my visit just right by arriving Sunday evening because the place is stripped of tourists during the week. I was one of a handful of foreigners on the whole island. I was also the only one staying in my hotel where I had my own room/bathroom with a TV! That is high rolling for the way I've been traveling but still in the budget paying only $12 a night.
At 6:30 every evening they would feed these hornbills at my hotel. They were like seagulls on Pangkor, they were everywhere!

Once I arrived and got settled I made my way to the beach (2 minute walk) and sat on a swing to take in the beautiful scenery. It was at this time I was approached by a local by the name of Adam (pronounced Ahdahm). We quickly became friends despite his broken English and before I knew it I was on my way to the other side of the island to Pangkor town (the main town on the island) on the back of his motor bike for dinner with his friends. I didn't even order he just asked me what I liked and ordered some delicious curry chicken with rice and sweet iced tea for me and I was set.
Sunset at Nipah Bay (where I stayed on the island)

The next day we met up again and he took me to his favorite beach where we were the only people in site. The day was mainly spent lounging on the beach and some more meals around town where I didn't order for myself (I don't think there was even a menu at the places we went to anyway).
My friend Adam at the beach he took me to

My last day on Pangkor I got up early and hopped on the back of the my hotel owners motor bike (his name is Din) to go into town to see the fish market. He called me his VIP guest and offered the personal tour without me even mentioning anything. So the Pangkor Island fish market is very different compared to the Tokyo fish market. Yes Tokyo is obviously bigger but on Pangkor it isn't as much of a market as it is you go from dock to dock and watch them take the catch off the boat, sprawl it across the dock, and then pick out what you want. So after riding through various dark alleys to get to these docks we came home with fish, crab, squid, and large prawns (he was going to cook me and his nephews a feast that night).
Din pulled over to show me this fishing boat they were in the middle of building

sorting the fish

The catch

After the fish market Din took me and his nephews to a small island only about a half mile from the beach to go snorkeling. Din knew of the technique of putting soggy bread into a plastic bag with holes in it and then when you bring it snorkeling you squeeze a little bread out and presto, you are surrounded by fish! We also had lunch delivered to us by speed boat from a restaurant on shore. This is when Din taught me how to eat curried rice properly with my hands.
Boat out to coral island where we went snorkeling

My afternoon snorkeling was then followed by some more beach lounging. I grabbed a table at the one restaurant on the beach and to go with the theme of things I of course was the only customer. My waiter was a local Malay that went by the name of Jack and he joined me for a few beers and some nice conversation. Then to go along with the theme again I got on the back of his motor bike for a ride back to my hotel (even though it was a 5 minute walk, they use their motor bike for everything!).
After a shower and some relaxing my Malaysian feast by chef Din was ready. We had squid in a chili sauce, Curried blue crab, fish in a sweet tomato sauce, and large prawns in a curry sauce with potatoes. It was delicious! After dinner I was picked up by Adam to hang out on my last night in town. We drove into Pangkor town to get some beer to drink on the beach. On the way was when he gave me a scooter lesson, he was a very enthusiastic teacher which made it more fun.

The next morning I once again had VIP service from Din and was offered a ride to the train station where I was to catch a train to Thailand. Din just happend to be going that direction for business and was nice enough to offer me a ride. This is a 3 hour ride we're talking about so it was very generous of him. Along the way he made sure I learned more about Malaysia. He would pull over to have me try fruits or to see different plants, it was a very educational car ride to say the least. So yes, next stop Thailand!

4 comments:

Andrew said...

Wow, looks like you picked the right island to go to! Enjoy Thailand and remind me to tell you how to get to my favorite restaurant in the world when you get close to Bangkok

Anonymous said...

wow, that place seem pretty much ridiculously awesome. You most definitely chose the right Island, I cant wait to hear about thailand!

Matt Lutton said...

I'm incredibly jealous -- looks like you're having a great time! and that food..

jkonway said...

I am so happy you are out there doing all this! Such amazing photos and it sounds like you've met a lot of really great people. Miss you lady...